Crêpes

  Crêpes are one of those things that make one's life in the kitchen a little bit easier. Their versatility allows them to assume the supportive and often structural aspect of a range of dishes. This utility and their fabrication being basically formulaic and requiring little specialty equipment outside of a bowl and a whisk mean that they should be ready in a cook's repertoire. The American pancake to which crêpes are often compared has a totally different character and, for that matter, purpose. It would be hard to overstate the absurdity of the concept of buttermilk pancakes wrapped around bechamel-bound savories and gratinéed. Ready to envelope any-old odd or end in its simple savor, they are a crutch to lean on in lean times. With only a few and basic ingredients the humble crêpe suddenly produces a meal made that much more civilized because of its presence. They are also sublime smeared with butter and devoured.

 Crêpes can also be more forwardly flavored and therefore more of the focus. They can be finely shredded and used to garnish (consommé celestine springs most readily to mind.) They can be rolled around shredded meat and flavorings, bound with bechamel sauce, cloaked with more of the same and baked with cheese until golden. This last example is a dish of such forward and comforting savor that it can't help but evoke a sense of well-fed well-being. Very little need accompany it, though the onslaught of starch is best relieved with a light vegetable preparation; sautéed zucchini is fun and I would think a green salad after is most appropriate. The crêpe can be flavored with anything that is small and discreet enough to not interfere with their manufacture: finely chopped herbs, spices or infusions. The note that finely chopped herbs, in particular chives, give to a crêpe does nothing to pervert its versatility and will expand the savor in a subtle manner. Crêpes can also be made into a sort of cake, layered one on the other and some sort of stuffing sandwiched between each. This can take the form of a vegetable preparation, perhaps with a creamy binding agent (cream, soft cheeses or bechamel all seem likely candidates.) Then more creamy substance allowing the formation of a gratin in the oven. The finished product is similar to the rolled, stuffed crêpes, but the slices, cut like a pie or cake, describe a more dramatic pattern, especially if the stuffing contains differently or at least strikingly colored elements, say, spinach or roasted peppers in various hues. This preparation can also be wielded into a dessert dish when the crêpes are layered with something also creamy but sweet as well, however with so many layers and the thinness of the crêpes themselves not exactly providing a robust foil to whatever creamy fantasy one has chosen for the stuffing, it is best to choose something that is not too sweet and cloyingly rich. This seems to rule out buttercream despite the temptation that a confection comprised almost exclusively of butter and sugar exerts.

  Dessert crêpes can be improved by a glaze of sugar in the oven or under a broiler. This process has the thing assume a texture of delicious and toothsome crunch of caramel on top of the supple and delicate crêpe; if done right there should be nearly as much melted sugar as crêpe. The splendid vessel a crêpe treated this way is needs very little to make it a full and satisfying dessert: a few slices of apple, pear or another fruit cooked in a flattering manner, a spread of butter and jam, creamed butter and sugar with another flavoring (vanilla, cocoa, citrus rind, liquors, etc...) are all enticing. The most noble crêpe dish is crêpes Suzette. This confection consists of orange flavored crêpes tossed in a butter, orange and cognac flavored sauce and flamed at table (though that is not strictly classic) for a bit of glamor. The combination of citrus, brandy and butter is exceptional, the crêpe acts as a sponge and the sticky texture of the sauce caressing the tender pancake is a dream at the end of a meal. It is wonderful. 

   Even the preparation of a batch of crêpes is a joy. As mentioned, the batter is merely a formula that, once mastered, is easy to whip up in a moment's notice. I have often read that crêpe batter is required to relax after it is mixed. The gluten, I am informed, will have been so agitated by the requisite beating that the crêpes produced from a just-made batter will be tough. Perhaps we can lay this at the feet of the blender. Many recipes insist on throwing everything together in a blender and whirring away to a homogenous smoothness. This, certainly, must whip the poor gluten to a frenzy and may in fact ensure a tough crêpe. I cannot help but prefer the comparatively primitive method of a bowl and whisk. It is exceptionally simple and the satisfaction of feeling one's way through the preparation is retained. The mixture starts with the blending of the flour and eggs, these are worked to a smooth mass and liquid is dribbled in, a bit at first followed by a steady stream. The initial mixing of eggs and flour is insurance against lumps (perish the thought) and the dribbling at first ensures an absolutely consistent batter. The liquid is most commonly milk but I have made perfect crêpes using water. Beer will also serve, adding a malty dimension, as will white wine, cut with either milk or water. The liquid should be added till the batter is the consistency of heavy cream. This is quite thin but it is this thinness that is the nature of the crêpe. At this stage it is wise to strain to eliminate any unmixed particles. Fat, in the form of melted butter or, more rarely, olive oil, is stirred in after straining so the floating particles of butter won't catch in the strainer. Crêpe batter is not terribly stable and as it sits the fat will rise to the top. It is profitable to give the batter a stir each time you dip into it to redistribute the fat throughout. A proper crêpe pan is made of seasoned iron. It is an old fashioned looking device and pleasing to look at but, in truth, perfect results may be had with a small non-stick pan as well. It is in fact less fussy to use a non-stick since the temperature is less sensitive. When using an iron pan it is imperitive that the surface be at a perfect temperature or the delicate little pancake will stick, but with a non-stick, as its name informs, sticking is impossible, no matter the temperature. A small amount of batter is needed for each crêpe, something less than a quarter cup, depending on the size of your pan. The pan should only be just coated with batter and a bit of intervening butter may be slipped in the pan between every few crêpes (it is unnecessary after each one) and this is a useful method of gauging temperature, since the butter responds in rather obvious ways to different ranges of temperature. I use a small ladle to pour in a bit of batter and immediately swirl the pan to distribute to all corners. The crêpe is done on the first side when the edges begin to curl away from the pan and you may detect a slight browning to them. If using iron I turn them with a simple flip of dining (blunt-edged) knife. A non-stick is a bit more delicate and I have more luck with a combination of chopstick and my fingers, lifting with the chopstick and executing a quick flip with a light pinch. It need only remain on the second side for a few moments and this side will always be inferior looking to the first. The first side will, when properly cooked, have a wonderful lacy quality, the rich brown intersecting with the almost beige in a spectacular pattern. This laciness occurs only when the pan is hot enough: As the batter is poured in if the pan is properly heated it will immediately bubble up and form minuscule pockets of empty space in the pan which, as you swirl the pan more batter will fill in and these spots will remain lighter in color. The effect is ravishing. The second side will be spotted brown in a few places but you mustn't be ashamed; this side will always be hidden, the beautiful first side being the crêpes public facade. As you cook crêpes it is beneficial to stack them all, one on the other, on a plate. They will keep each other from drying out and when the stack is complete it is necessary to cover them in plastic. Before they are so-enclosed however, it is pleasurable, for me at least, to stop and smell the metaphorical roses: the scent of a freshly made pile of crêpes is sometimes all that is needed to assure me that life is fine. Try it.
  There are several ways in which a crêpe may be folded to enrobe a filling. It may simply be rolled around once, or if the filling is thin and spreadable, it may be spread across the entire surface and the pancake may be rolled tightly into a roll, forming a spiral shape with the filling, especially effective when the crêpe is cut, revealing the drama within. Another folding form is to bring in the edges so the circle becomes a rectangle, it is similar to folding an envelope. This enclosure is wonderful when fried, the surface will become crisp and the filling will be a surprise inside. I love to lay a crêpe, put a slice of cheese and of ham as well as a poached egg inside then fold it as described. I will then lay the stuffed crêpes in a buttered dish, dab more butter on top and put in a hot oven. A little mustard will also bring everything into focus. The egg is the sauce and the effect is delicious. A surprising use is discovered when the crêpe is cut in ribbons. They have served in composed salads in my kitchen and the effect is delicious, if unusual. The ribbons are noodle-like in effect and the soft texture will marry with other consistencies for a festive and original salad. 
  Crêpes are one of my favorite things in the kitchen. I hope I have conveyed my enthusiasm. The versatility of crêpes means that they can be welded to any number of preparations but it always seems most prudent to me to respect, as nearly as possible, their native qualities, that is to say: thinness and delicacy (of both flavor and texture.) The crêpe should always be detectable and it's subtle, sweet and almost "eggy" flavor should not be lost in the mix. This to me means that when stuffing the crêpe should not be full to bursting. It is nice to fold in quarters so the crêpe intercedes itself between multiple layers and thus offers more texture.
  Here is the formula I use when making crêpes:
   1 heaping Tablespoon of flour TO 1 large egg TO 1 Tablespoon melted butter TO about 1/3 cup milk, beer, water et cetera

The mixing and cooking method is described above. My typical batch is the above formula times three (3 heaping Tablespoons flour, 3 eggs, 3 Tablespoons butter, about 1 cup liquid). Add the liquid slowly and look for the ideal of "heavy cream consistency." Enjoy crêpes and make them often.